THE JEWS OF CALCUTTA.

Well, let me be clear at first. This article is a sort of compendium and collection of information collected from various sources from the internet and other places. The sources, I would list below, to its utmost authenticity. The question would be then, why on earth would I be writing this piece if  the materials are available already? The answer would be to provide, common yet enthusiastic friends and readers a collective outlook into the ever dwindling Jewish population of Calcutta. To put it simply, to provide the information in one place.

So why the Jews? A newsprint was brought to my attention by friend Shrutarshi Das, (http://www.telegraphindia.com/1131017/jsp/calcutta/story_17389837.jsp#.UnuLntLEJl0 ) where we learn about the digitized archiving of the various documents relating to the Jewish community of Calcutta by Jael and Flower Silliman and being assisted by Prof. Amlan Dasgupta of Jadavpur University, Kolkata. The article went,

"The museum project is led by Jael Silliman, one of the 25 Jews remaining in Calcutta. The 58-year-old former women’s studies teacher at the University of Iowa is being assisted in her task by Amlan Dasgupta, professor at Jadavpur University." (The Telegraph, Kolkata)

The article also mentions,

"The local Jewish community, comprising mostly elders, was once 6,000-strong. The first batch of Jews had arrived in the country from West Asia in the late 18th century. There are three main branches of the community in India — the Bene-Israel (literally meaning Children of Israel), the Cochin Jews who prospered along the Malabar coast and Baghdadi Jews, who settled mostly in Calcutta and Mumbai." (The Telegraph, Kolkata)

If we are to trace the history of the Jews in Calcutta, we find that the Jewish population in Calcutta is mostlyBaghdadi Jews who came to the city for trade. At one point the community was as strong as 6000, even as per the Jewish encyclopedia, 1906 (http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/3917-calcutta), it mentions Calcutta, the "Capital of Bengal, and seat of government of British India. The Jews of Calcutta now number about 2,150, of whom 150 are European and the remainder natives of Asiatic Turkey, Persia, and southern Arabia.". 

However, this number has at present dwindled drastically to 25, and not before long, the presence of the thriving Jewish community in Calcutta, would be part of history. To get a first hand taste of it, even in a miniscule way, through its architecture, was the task we had set ourselves. 

Calcutta, or Kolkata as it is now known, has always been a hub of cosmopolitan existence. Due to its close

THE ESPLANADE MANSIONS

proximity to the river and sea, it had been a thriving centre of trade, commerce and has always attracted entrepreneurs from abroad. Kolkata's Jews were mostly the Baghdadi Jews, coming from Iraq. The first recorded arrival was of Shalome Cohen, a jewel trader, in 1798, who was from Aleppo in present day Syria. The Jewish Encyclopaedia 1906, cites:

 "Shalome David Cohen is the first permanent settler of whom there is authentic record toward the end of the eighteenth century. He became a favorite of the Raja of Lucknow, and even had the honor of riding with him on his elephant."

The most famous of the Jewish families in Kolkata was perhaps the father-son duo of  real estate magnates David Joseph Ezra and Elias David Ezra. They are responsible for stately mansions of the time, like the Esplanade Mansions which look over the Raj Bhavan in Kolkata. The Ezra Hospital, the only Jewish institution of its kind in Calcutta, was erected in 1887, by Mrs. Mozelle E. D. J. Ezra in memory of her husband. It cost 125,000 rupees; and all expenses, save those of doctors, were defrayed by the founder. The Hospital now forms part of the Medical College Hospital, Kolkata.

The city presently has two Jewish Synagogues, which formed part of our visit. One, the Beth-El Synagogue,

THE BETH-EL SYNAGOGUE

at Pollock Street, near Dalhousie Square, is a peaceful existence amidst the hurly burly of the Kolkata metropolitan street. The large facade outside, with the Menorah, (seven lamped candelabrum), and the Star of David gracing its exterior walls, only to be paled in existence by its equally magnificent interiors

A plaque outside tells us, that it was conceived and built by David Joseph Ezra and Ezekiel Judah at the cost of Rs. 50.000, in the year 5616 A.M. and its president Elias Shalome Gubbay, rebuilt and extended it in 5646 A.M. The yearly marker (A.M) being Anno Mundi L. The two dates mentioned, if calculated, comes to roughly 1856 and 1886 A.D in the Gregorian Calendar.

The second synagogue in Kolkata, a stone's throw distance from Beth-El is the Magen David Synagogue, on Brabourne Road. Built in 1884, the Maghen David, or the Shield of David, Synagogue, standing quaint beside a bustling 'bazaar' is reminiscent of the Jewish grandeur which existed once. Not only the nostalgia, and remembrance of things past, the Synagogue, (many mistake it to be a church) is an embodiment of an architectural jewel within this very city. It was built by Elias David Joseph Ezra, in the memory of his father David Joseph Ezra.

"The synagogue is built in the Italian Renaissance style with a brick red finish. The entrance to

MAGHEN DAVID SYNAGOGUE

the synagogue compound is hidden behind makeshift stalls selling hair clips and other trinkets. The Magen David Synagogue is approached through an arched door, containing the hexagonal “Star of David” and Hebrew inscription. The two side walls contains memorial plaques dedicated to the well known Jews of Calcutta (Kolkata). Although the services of the Magen David Synagogue have long stopped but the interior are astonishingly well maintained. The chequered marble floor, gleaming chandeliers, stained glass windows and ornate floral pillars shipped from Paris enhance its Continental look. The alter of the Magen David Synagogue is crowned with an Apse (Half Dome) studded with stars. It represents the heaven. The large plaque in the middle contain the “Ten Commandments.” It also contains several other Hebrew inscription along with several other items of Jewish Iconography, including the seven branched lamp stand of Menorah. High above the wall opposite the alter is a beautiful circular stained glass. At the centre of the hall is a raised podium from where the Rabbi preached. Two sets of stairs from either side of the hall leads to the upper balconies, reserved for women." (Wikipedia)  The interiors are structurally overwhelming, with its large arches and the gleaming stained glass windows.

The many rows of chairs almost echo of a bustling community which once existed. The empty chairs now add

INTERIOR OF THE MAGHEN DAVID SYNAGOGUE

an eerie feel to it. Commonly enough the caretakers of the two synagogues are Muslims, and informs us that since the dwindling down of the population, services are few and far between. Even our contact person for permission was a Bengali Hindu. 

"Magen David and the city’s two other synagogues used to be packed on Jewish holidays. For the first half of the 20th century, Kolkata, then known as Calcutta, was home to nearly 3,500 Jews. At its peak during World War II, the population grew to about 5,000 when Jews from Burma and Europe moved to the city seeking refuge, according to Jael Silliman, one of Kolkata’s remaining Jews and the author of a recent novel on the community.

THE RAISED 'BIMAH' IN  MAGHEN DAVID SYNAGOGUE

“We thrived here,” said Ms. Silliman, 58. “We had Jewish schools and our own newspapers. But now it’s mostly memories. In a few years we’ll all be gone.” 

(http://india.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/10/24/the-last-jews-of-kolkata/?_r=2  quoted from an article by Zach Marks.) The Maghen David holds various paintings of the erstwhile important people of the Jewish community.

Moving on, many erstwhile roads were named after prominent members of the Jewish community, and still carries their legacy today. Doomotollah street, once inhabited by 'Doms' (the inhabitants of the lowest strata of the caste hierarchy) was renamed as Ezra Street, after Elias David Joseph Ezra. 

"It is interesting to note that the first Bengali theatre was situated at Doomtollah Street. Lebedeff’s theatre was the first to present Bengali dramas in Calcutta, as is evident from an advertisement which appeared in James Hickey’s Bengal Gazette published on November 26, 1795. The advertisement clearly stated that a ‘Bengally Theatre’ – a comedy called ‘The Disguise’ was to open on Friday, November 27, 1795. The play was to commence exactly at 8pm and tickets of boxes and pits were priced at Rs 8 while the gallery tickets were sold at Rs 4."

( http://kolkataonwheelsmagazine.com/kolkata-history/road-history/ezra-streetkolkatas-jewish-connection/)

We also learn that Elias David Joseph Ezra was elected Commissioner of the Calcutta Municipal Corporation in 1876 and he was a member of the Road and Conservancy Committee. 

ELIAS MEYER FREE SCHOOL & TALMUD TORAH

 The Jewish population of Kolkata, had also their influence in the field of education. The city still has two schools set up by the community. The Jewish Girls School, and the Elias Meyer Free School and Talmud Torah. Both, however admit students from all communities now. However, Elias Meyer School, as the name suggests was set up as the means of free education for Jewish Children. The Jewish Encyclopedia mentions that there was, apart from free education for the underprivileged Jewish children, provisions for meals in the afternoon. The School still stands today. 

The Jews had made their presence felt in fields of education, business as well as cinema. Mention must also be made of Rachel Sofaer, who acted in Bengali silent films under the name of Arati Devi and Tabita Solomon, the first Jewish lady to acquire a degree in dental sciences in 1922. In the fields of business, much has been talked about the real estate magnates, the Ezras. Also mention must be made of Sassoon & Co. as one of the business pioneers of the city. Also David Nahoum, who till his death recently, held an eminent position amongst the Jewish fraternity in the city, as the owner of the famous confectionery shop at New Market, holds his own place amongst the Jewish business pioneers. Nahoum's at New Market still holds its 'crowd-pull' after so many years in existence. 

To conclude it would be apt to quote again, Ms. Silliman, “We have such a fascinating history, one that is very much tied to the history of the city.” (http://india.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/10/24/the-last-jews-of-kolkata/?_r=2). We cannot but agree with the statement.

P.S.  Any attempt at visiting the two Jewish Synagogues, would have to be permitted in writing and the permission to be obtained from Nahoum's Confectioneries at New Market.

References:

1. http://india.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/10/24/the-last-jews-of-kolkata/?_r=2

2. http://www.geni.com/projects/Baghdadi-Trade-Diaspora-Jews-in-Calcutta/12492

3. http://jwa.org/encyclopedia/article/baghdadi-jewish-women-in-india

4. http://kolkataonwheelsmagazine.com/kolkata-history/road-history/ezra-streetkolkatas-jewish-connection/

5. http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/3917-calcutta#anchor3

6. Wikipedia.

7.http://www.telegraphindia.com/1131017/jsp/calcutta/story_17389837.jsp#.UnuzHtLEJl1

Copyright claim: The copyright of all the images in this post rests with the author, and any re-use of the images would require the permission of the author.

*** Thanks would be an understatement to fellow enthusiasts, Shrutarshi Das, and Siddhartha Dey.***